Well, now I´m back again
The longer answer is, that this camera is super - in many ways, with a 26 x zoom (that can be used together
with macro) - but it has also some weak points:
1) Pixels regarding to the rather small sensor (3/4 as I remember it)
That means, that you have to do nearly the right crob, when you shot. That can be easily done with the zoom,
so that´s ok
2) The colour reproduction - I have been more years to correct for this "to much blue" ...
- but not with flash: There it is the opposite - To much Yellow .
3) I don´t like the colours of it without "Vivid colours", so I use that ever.
But when you know the camera, it is super. You can flip the backscreen - and not to the leff, where it
is in trouble with your left hand.
Regarding to the pixels, I have first to ekstra sharpen - and then diffuse the background.
That require, that you have the energy to draw a tight mask around the species (every single hair)
and then diffuse the background, in more layers.
Here is another example:
After diffusing the background - drawing a new mask pretending more distance
... and diffuse again.
So, all in all, I use between 1/4 to 3/4 hour on each photo, before the job is done
- so you have to love to sit behind your PC to make such photos from this camera.
I am still looking, but I haven´t found any camera, that could replace it, until now.
Maybe some are able to, but I think, you will get the same afterwork/editering with these cameras.
And Fuji X-S1 is rather low-priced/cheap
I have equipment for about 900 Euro, all in all.
And the total weight, with tripod and remote is max 1 kg.
The camera works super with animals from 5 to 20 mm´s - together with the zoom and the Raynox in combination.
My work distance is about 15 cm´s - (+/-)
But I don´t like the camera to photography of birds.
In 99% cases I ALWAYS use a little Table-Tripod and remotecontrol
- and I have made a kind of a small "Photo-studio" on the luggage carrier on my electrick Bicycle.
It maybe sounds crazy, but it works super: You can roll the bicycle at small paths, with
very little workingspace, in tight scrubs and so on.
1) You have the right plant just behind the species, so the environment looks correckly.
2) You have a better check on the wind, so the photos are getting more sharp.
3) You can turn around the branch to show the animal in the best angel - and to get most of the animal in focus
at the same time.
4) You can turn a little away from directly sunlight, if it disturb the light/shadow effects ... and so on.
5) The animal don´t make a drop down in the underwood, where you cannot find it again.
6) After the photosession (often 10 minutes) - you can put back the animal to its hostplant
I have attached some photos to show both the photo-arrangement with my camera
and a photo of my bike
In the box I have some boxes, my coffee and food.
And here seen on my bike:
Next summer, I want to build a small stand to make a whitish half-transparent "roof" to put
up above the photo-arrangement on the bike, to avoid directly sunlight, that makes the
The "roof" must diffuse the light - and you have light enough at the same time.
And many larvae doesn´t like directly sunlight. Many use to live in the shadow.
So the roof will carm them, too
To the flash I have build a kind of a "Pipe" to move all the light to the front of the lense, and diffuse it.
That works great! - and the cost is about 5 Euro. - and it is very
You can see this on this old thread on "Fugle and Nature", a danish website for Butterflies, Birds, Animals, Plants and so on
(All the photos are "beginner-photos". I work more great now - Better colours and so on)
I hope, that this was answers on the most questions - or you just ask again
Kind regards - Kjeld